PARIS-SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS
Taking the children to Paris - or any major city - can be an exhausting business. While we grown-ups are generally capable of walking for miles in order to take in the splendid sights on offer, little legs are less able to cope with the whole tourist bit. Even the oft-used bribe of another ice-cream can fail to tempt a tired three-year-old into taking another step. However, with some careful planning - and the judicious use of a stroller or pushchair for the youngest family member(s) - a trip to Paris can be just as memorable for the kids as the parents.
* France in general is extremely welcoming to young children. You can happily take them into most restaurants without the owner or clientele batting an eyelid. Do bear in mind, however, that French youngsters - les enfants - tend to dine out from an early age and display immaculate table manners. So, if your little treasure views his/her cutlery as potential weapons and prefers to spend most of their time under the table, you may have to indulge in a few 'eating out' lessons beforehand.
* If a children's menu is available, all well and good. If not, the owner will usually be prepared to split a menu item between two children. Alternatively, for toddlers and pre-schoolers, why not request an extra plate and share your meal with them? Children - in my experience - are often happy with a hunk of bread, some soup and an ice-cream to follow.
Places to go
Don't underestimate the impact some of Paris' most famous sights will have on even the youngest tourist. You might well feel a bit blasé about the Eiffel Tower but your child will probably regard it with awe. My five-year-old - who insists on referring to it as the 'awful' tower - was suitably impressed by its size and structure. Both he and his younger brother also treated Notre Dame Cathedral with an appropriate reverence, and were delighted to light candles inside its medieval vaults. On the other hand, a trip to the Louvre might not go down so well, unless your little angel prefers Picasso to Peter Pan.
Any child who has ever been exposed to a TV or video will already know that Paris has its very own Disneyland (see separate pages for details). However, there are plenty of other places in and around the city aimed at children. Here is a guide to some of the attractions on offer:
Parc Asterix
This is the homegrown alternative to Disneyland Paris, with the feisty little Gaulle taking center-stage, alongside his much-loved cartoon buddies. We visited Parc Asterix last year (with our then five-year-old and three-year-old boys) and they absolutely loved it. It is less crowded and less commercialized than its American-influenced rival, and offers a good range of rides and attractions appropriate to their age group. Everything - including the show performances - is in French, but this did not prove a handicap, and encouraged everyone to attempt to speak the language. Even the boys were spouting 'merci' and 'au revoir' with enthusiasm.
Like Disneyland Paris, the park is divided into different themed areas - Asterix Village, the Roman City and Ancient Greece, to name a few. Queues were fairly lengthy for some of the more adult-oriented rides, but those for the little ones were remarkably easy to get through. One ride that demanded a great deal of patience (as well as a strong stomach) was the terrifying Tonnerre de Zeus, a huge roller-coaster that travels at speeds of over 80km per hour. Filled with bravado, this mum decided to give it a whirl, and exited minus one earring (and almost minus lunch). Did I enjoy it? Let's just say I kept my eyes closed and my fists clenched the whole time.
Parc Asterix is situated 45 km (28 miles) north of Paris. You can get there by car (on the A1 Paris-Lille autoroute between exits No 7 and 8). Alternatively, buses depart on a regular basis from Charles de Gaulle airport to the park. It is open from April 4 to mid-October from 10am to 6pm (sometimes later). The rest of the year the park is open restricted hours and days. Admission costs approximately 160FF for adults and 110FF for children under 12. Under-3s are admitted free. Like Disneyland Paris, your ticket entitles you to go on all the rides and view all the shows etc.
Jardin d'Acclimatation
This open-air amusement park is a veritable goldmine for little ones looking to burn up some excess energy. There are plenty of old-fashioned roundabouts, adventure playgrounds and puppet shows, as well as a miniature train. Budding artists can try their hand with an easel and brush at the Musee en Herbe or hone their clowning skills at the circus (both activities carry an additional cost). Your best bet is to buy a book of 16 tickets for the park, costing approximately FF150 as the cost of individual rides will quickly burn a hole in your wallet.
Jardin d'Acclimatation is situated at the northern side of the Bois de Boulogne. The nearest metro station is Les Sablons.
Parc Floral de Paris
This is a favourite with families who can meander through the beautiful Vallee des Fleurs, explore the water garden and take advantage of an activity park offering some 60 games for the children. There is also a butterfly house, a zoo and theatre. You'll find Parc Floral at Bois de Vincennes on the south east edge of Paris. Take the metro to Chateau de Vincennes. Admission is approximately FF10 per person, with the under-10s paying half-price. Rides cost extra.
Parc de la Villette
Built on the site of a former abattoir, Parc de la Villette is now one of Paris' most-visited sites. It comprises of 136 acres of futuristic gardens, with the massive Cite des Sciences et de l'Industrie (City of Science and Industry) as its centerpiece. This is every child's idea of science heaven, as most of the exhibits are interactive, with plenty of buttons, knobs and screens to keep little fingers (and minds) happy. There is also a Cite des Enfants (book in advance) with sessions aimed at different age groups, giving youngsters a chance to try all manner of experiments. You can also visit the giant silver ball known as La Geode, which houses a wraparound cinema, or even climb on board a genuine naval submarine.
Parc de la Villette is situated to the north east of Paris (nearest metro: Porte de la Villette). Closed on Mondays, it opens from 10am to 6pm or 7pm the rest of the week. Combined entrance tickets to the Cite des Sciences et de l'industrie cost around FF50 (under-7s go free).
Jardin d'enfants des Halles
This is a themed park divided into six different 'worlds', offering a wide range of activities for the seven to 11-year-olds. You can even choose to leave your child in the care of English-speaking staff for an hour, at a cost of around FF2.50 per child. This is pretty much a parent-free zone, with mums and dads only admitted for a short time on Saturdays. Yippee, say the kids! The park is located at Forum des Halles, 105 Rue Rambuteau - nearest metro, Chatelet.
Aquaboulevard
Just the place for cooling off after a sticky day of sightseeing, this wet 'n' wonderful aquatic paradise will have your young ones whooping with delight as they speed down giant slides, splash through waterfalls and swim against the powerful wave machines. It is situated at 4-6, rue Louis Armand and is open from 8am to 11pm (midnight on Saturdays). Admission costs approximately FF69 for adults, FF15 for children. To get there, take the metro to either Balard or Porte de Versailles stations.
France Miniature
Travelling further afield, you can feel like a giant among the miniature buildings of this model village. There are over 200 models - scaled down to a 30th of their actual size - including replicas of such famous landmarks as the Moulin Rouge, Montmartre and Sacre Coeur. You can get there via the RER C rail line to St Quentin en Yvelines station. Open from March to November, France Miniature costs approximately FF75 for adults, FF50 for under-14s.
La Mer de Sable
Situated to the north of Paris at Ermenonville is this adventure playground that draws on the wild, wild west for its inspiration. You can be a cowboy or an Indian for the day, with plenty of train and pony rides, fairground attractions and shows - including an Indian attack - to keep the youngsters entertained. La Mer de Sable is open from March to September, from 10.30am to 7pm. Under-3s get in free, everyone else pays around FF80. Take the RER B rail line to Roissy Charles de Gaulle 1 to connect with a bus to take you to the park.